✂️Sewing Blog Pricing Formalwear Alterations

Pricing Formalwear Alterations

04/01/2024


**This originally appeared as a page on our website. In effort to simplify, several pages have been moved to the blog.

Pricing Formalwear Alterations

Every so often, folks will call up asking for a quote so that they can price compare before choosing who should do their alterations. There are so many factors that go into the pricing of the work, that it is extremely difficult to give an idea ahead of time.

Additionally, because we have such a severe lack of folks sewing in our area, there is so much work that you won't get someone to do your alterations if you don't get on someone's reservation list. This significantly changes the conversation about choosing who will do the work, because price doesn't dictate whether or not someone has space to complete the work.

Pricing Factors

Here are a few things to consider in the price of alterations conversation.  For general answers on budgeting, please see the FAQs below.

  • Number of Layers: Some dresses have one or 2 layers, some have 10 or 15 layers.
  • Shape of the Garment: Some designers put more research into making their clothing shaped a little bit more like actual humans, some do not. 
  • Appliques/Lace/Beadwork: These details can add extra work, and often there is hours of handsewing associated.
  • Size of part or all of the garment: It's fairly rare that someone is the same size in the shoulders and bust as they are in the waist and hips, so most dresses must be purchased for the largest area and then the rest of the dress is taken in.
  • What Stress does to bodies: People often stress with planning formal events and some folks stress gain weight, and others stress lose weight.  It becomes our challenge to make the clothing shaped like the body.

Please Read our Pricing FAQs: 

What historical considerations impact the pricing conversation of today?

Skilled sewing labor ranges from $50-$200 per hour depending on the skills a job requires. Many clothing items need to be completely redesigned to match the shape of the person wearing the garment, which requires experience that entry level sewists just don't have.

Part of the pricing conversation in this industry must address the preconceived ideas people have about sewing in general. This is a field that has been historically considered to be "women's work," and we aren't very far removed from a time when every family had someone who knew how to sew. The baby boomer generation of sewists (like Carolyn) fought an uphill battle in charging for skilled sewing because society tended to think "this is just something you do on the side, as a hobby."

Now that sewing is no longer as common knowledge as it was in post WWII era, the younger generations don't have the same dismissive attitude about sewists, but that attitude of the older generations are definitely in the undercurrent of the conversation here in the American Midwest. Folks don't think twice about paying $150/hour when it's their car mechanic, but somehow there's room to criticize sewists if they want to take home more than $15/hour after paying their expenses.

How do you put together a bid?

Most of the time, we under estimate how much work a job will be, so we like to give a price range for each task to let you know best case scenario/worst case scenario. Most wedding gowns require 2-4 fittings that often take 1.5 each because altering one area of the dress can affect other areas.  The dresses that are simple take between 10-20 hours worth of sew time, while more complicated dresses have taken up to 60 hours of sew time in the past.

Would it have been cheaper to have you make me a dress that was actually shaped right?

The average alterations bill has been in the $600-$900 range with the materials and designs that are popular right now. Dresses that are heavily beaded and need to be worked on significantly to make the shape fit the person have been in the $1500-$2000 range.  Dresses don't come shaped like people and there is a lot of work that goes into each dress to make it shaped like the client. I would say if the dress fits in the bust, waist and hips and all you need changed is strap length, hem length, and you need a bustle for a short train, you could expect to pay $300-$500. If you have a longer train and you need the sides taken in, or bust reshaping, added to the bill, then you can expect more of the $600-$900 range. If you also have beadwork, lace appliques, and you need us to line the body of the dress with extra fabric, or draft and design sleeves to be added to your dress, or insert modesty panels, or create corset backs, then you can expect the bill to be between $1000-$1500.

What if I have a set budget and its less than $1000?

Communication is KEY!! We urge you to tell us that you're looking for the budget friendly option and we'll talk through all of that with you at the fitting.

If you have a set budget, we'll help you problem solve some things you could skip if you had to, or lesser versions of a job than the most expensive one. Bustles are often a great example. We try to show a budget friendly option, but the pretty options often cost more because of the number of points involved. 

Another great example is if the top of the dress is a bit big, well we will probably have to life the shoulders to get the bust to sit in the right place, but maybe we don't take the side seams in if its only a little big.  

Why are the alterations are the same (or more!) than the dress?!

I can not stress this enough: 

Dresses do NOT come shaped like humans!!

If companies catered to every shape/size combination, it would put them out of business because the inventory would be a cost they couldn't absorb. I've shared this image on many pages, but essentially, they create dresses in a small size and then cut the pattern into a grid, adding width and height to each new size, but bodies don't really change like that. 

Would it have been cheaper to have you make me a dress that was actually shaped right?

Short answer? No.

Here's why:

  1. Price of Fabric: The fast fashion industry has created a scenario where you can purchase an ENTIRE DRESS for the price it would take for sewists simply to BUY THE FABRIC - ONLY.  When we buy fabric in the United States, it has gone from the factories that make the fabric through several middle companies, each marking it up and charging for shipping before it is available at our local stores. The bridal industry can buy fabric in the country the clothing is being made and skip some of those middle companies. Then the dress is constructed abroad with foreign labor prices, which we will NEVER be able to compete with and make a livable wage. Bridesmaid dresses can often be purchased for LESS money than the fabric will cost. Wedding Gown materials can cost more than $1000 - for the fabric alone!
  2. The Prep before Construction: Pattern companies don't design patterns any closer to fitting people than the bridal industry does. Either the pattern must be altered before we make the garment, or we make the garment and still have to go through all the alterations of fitting the dress to your shape. Pattern manipulation is a separate skill from alterations and is more of a drafting and designing skill set.  Drafting a pattern from scratch OR altering a ready made pattern to be shaped like the customer requires labor that would cost in the $500-$1000 range - all before we even sit down to the sewing machine!!
  3. The sew time: Now the entire garment has to be constructed. With all the steps involved in creating a Wedding gown, the sewing process could easily take 200 hours and requires a skill set that is somewhere between $100-$200 per hour. Complete construction of an entire wedding gown can easily cost between $10,000-$40,000. 

In the end, buying the dress and having it altered is the cheapest way to have a custom shaped, custom sized dress. 

Is tipping customary?

Great question. This is definitely a personal one-to-one service industry. Because the attitude of older generations with regard to sewing is that it's "just something you do on the side, out of your house, as a hobby," I'm afraid there isn't a longstanding history of tipping sewists. However, we are seeing recognition from Gen X, Millennials and Gen Z that they expect to tip. In our shop, its way more typical that we underbid the job in the first place and that we have way more hours into a dress than what we bid it for, because it's easy to forget the value of our knowledge. We are blown away every time we receive a tip and its still new and humbling for us. 

Learn to sew!

We have quickly realized that we must teach what we do, since there is no formal way to get a degree in being a Specialist in Alterations.


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